When you think of the end of the world, you likely think of raging fire, human extinction, and total devastation. Terrible things. Sad stuff. The world, ending.

But this trip to the end of the world was not that. Instead, it featured fluffy snowflakes, local craft brews, and succulent spider crab. Delicious things. Happy stuff.

Join me on a trip to this fin del mundo.

Ushuaia, the world’s southernmost city in the province of Tierra del Fuego, is a 4 hour flight from Buenos Aires, Argentina. It’s a city of 60,000 people with the warm hospitality of a small village.

The city backs up to the snowcapped Andes mountains. And in front an expansive view of the Beagle Channel, the port of departure for most Antarctic cruises and expeditions. We visited in August, peak winter in the southern hemisphere, with an average temperature of 30-40°F (0-4°C, for my one non-US reader).

LANDING SAFELY ON SNOWY GROUND

We flew into Ushuaia at night during a snowstorm, turning the 737 into a rocket ship, with little snowflakes streaming by like stars at 500 miles per hour. With snowstorm turbulence, no light, nor sense of distance from the ground, I was sweating through my Sorel boots. When we hit the runway, the plane erupted in applause. Apparently I was not the only one relieved to be on solid ground.

As we taxied into the terminal, I forgot all about the flying deathtrap and my attention was fixed on the white, fluffy snow surrounding us. Although I grew up with lots of snow during the Wisconsin winters, I had forgotten how magical (yes, magical) it can sometimes feel.

A cab brought us through downtown and up to our Airbnb set on a little hill outside of the city center. He dropped us off at the gate and we trudged our way through the snow to our little cabin home for the next few days. It wasn’t fancy, but it was warm, clean, and cozy, especially with the snowdrifts and melting icicles outside the window.

That first night we bundled up and walked into town for dinner. Not really experiencing snow for the last few years, I felt so happy to slip, slide, and slosh around in the white stuff. It was also one of Blas’ first times in the snow, which was awesome and hilarious to see his reactions.

During the trip I proclaimed myself a snow expert, or snommelier, if you will, telling Blas about all the different types of snow. “You’ve got the big fat flakes, the stingy icy flakes, the slushy stuff, the yellow stuff…” I’m not sure if he appreciated my insights. Let’s say he did.

When we made it into town (without falling on our asses a single time) we treated ourselves to burgers and beer. We arrived at Grut, a local cervecería, at 11pm with dinner in full swing and no signs of it stopping. It’s one of the things I love most about Argentina: the nightowl culture. It is totally normal to eat dinner at 9/10/11pm, with many restaurants not even opening until 7 or 8pm.

With our bellies full and beer blankets on, we trekked back up to our cabin for the night.

BUNDLED & BUMMING

The next day we spent exploring the city. We got a great brunch at a coffee shop; broccoli quiche, chicken sandwich, and two types of chipa, a chewy, cheesy bread roll.

We walked downtown, popping into a shop or two.

We strolled along the picturesque (and frigid) waterfront.

We mingled with the locals.

And we stopped for another local brew, this time at a cervecería called Krund.

I got my passport stamped with the “end of the world” stamp. Touristy and fun.

Then we grabbed a few groceries to make dinner at the cabin so we could go to sleep early, and rest up for the next day’s snowboarding adventure.

SNOWBOARDING IN THE ANDES

The shuttle picked us up at 8am for the 30 minute drive to Cerro Castor, the ski resort. It was Blas’ first time snowboarding, and my first time in several years. With the long lift lines (there was only one main chair operating), my inability to teach snowboarding, and Blas’ first time frustrations, the day wasn’t quite as magical as anticipated. But at least we were surrounded by breathtaking views to distract from our disgruntled states.

We even managed to muster up a smile “for the memories.”

THE BIGGEST SNOW STORM SINCE 1995

The next day we woke up early to a fresh dump of powder. Our shuttle to the ski resort for day two of snowboarding was delayed by an hour and we came to find out Ushuaia was experiencing its biggest snow storm since 1995.

While we waited for our ride, Blas made his first ever snow angel. 🥰

On the mountain, fully equipped with better attitudes, we had a great day complete with genuine smiles.

Unfortunately with the fresh powder came even longer chairlift lines. So after a few solid runs, we decided to break for lunch. And instead of returning to the hill, I took advantage of the neighboring ice rink. I can’t remember the last time I ice skated and I completely forgot how much fun it is! In my head I was Michelle Kwan, but this video says otherwise.

COZINESS & CRAB

Our last day in Ushuaia was slow and peacefully uneventful. We nursed our snowboarding aches and pains, worked a bit, and relaxed in the cabin.

We also took a walk and got a great view of the city.

That night we capped off the trip with the local delicacy: centollo, or spider crab in English. I ordered a centollo risotto with big, generous pieces of juicy crab.